Knowledge delivery: 3.15 teaches you how to identify textile quality

First, the quality requirements of textiles

Textiles are made from various textile fibers and processed through spinning, weaving, dyeing and finishing. Textiles must cover the body to protect the cold, and secondly, beautify life. Therefore, the quality requirements for textiles can be summarized as good taking, high artistic, fine craftsmanship and strong durability. The textile quality standards stipulate five indicators: raw materials, fabric structure, fabric physical and mechanical properties, appearance defects and color fastness.

The raw materials of textiles determine the appearance characteristics and basic properties of the fabrics. Reasonable selection of fabric raw materials is important for improving the performance of textiles and enhancing the maintenance. The original materials of the fabric determine the fullness, gloss and softness of the fabric.

Fabric structure refers to the texture, weight and thickness, density, tightness, width and length of textiles, etc., which are stipulated in the quality standards.

The physical and mechanical properties of the fabric refer to the breathability, water permeability, moisture absorption, shrinkage, tensile strength, crack resistance, roof strength, abrasion resistance, wrinkle strength, and fatigue strength of the fabric.

The appearance of the fabric refers to various defects on the fabric, such as damage, stains, color strips, holes, missing, uneven dyeing, chromatic aberration, and latitude. In addition to affecting the appearance, these defects also seriously affect the fastness and performance of the fabric, so the appearance of the fabric must be strictly controlled.

Color fastness refers to the change of textile color caused by friction, sweat, washing, ironing and sun exposure in textiles, which can be controlled within a certain range.

Second, the identification of textiles

The starting material for textiles is fiber. Textile fibers are soft, elastic, have a certain strength, and are resistant to friction and tensile properties. Among the natural fibers, cotton, flax, jute, ramie and other plant fibers, wool, camel, cashmere, rabbit hair, silk animal fiber. Chemical cellulose fibers and protein fibers are rayon fibers, and polyester fibers, polyamide fibers, polyacrylonitrile fibers, and acetate fibers are all synthetic fibers. Woven and knitting in textiles are the two most important methods of composition. Woven fabrics are divided into five categories: cotton, wool, linen, silk and chemical fiber. Knitwear can be divided into clothing, socks, gloves and scarves. And five categories of knitted chemical fiber fabrics.

Identification of textile fibers usually includes sensory identification, combustion, microscopic observation, and chemical dissolution. It is often necessary to observe the test in several different ways to get the correct conclusion.

Sensory identification is the identification of fibers and fabrics by hand touch and eye. Hand touch is to identify the softness, elasticity and wrinkles of the fabric; it is to see the gloss, thickness, length, and bending form of the fiber or fabric.

The characteristics of various fabric fibers are as follows:

Cotton: The fiber has natural curl, the fiber is thin and short, the length can reach about 38mm, the elasticity is poor, the hand feels soft and the gloss is dim.

Wool: The fiber is long and curly, with good elasticity, luster and warm hand. The fabric is not easy to wrinkle when it is rubbed, and the hand feels smooth and crisp.

Wool is usually referred to as curled hair on a sheep and straight hair on a goat.

Cashmere: refers to the undercoat on the goatskin. Compared with wool, cashmere feels softer, smoother and more detailed.

Silk: Silk is the longest and thinnest in natural fiber, with good strength, soft and smooth handfeel (the tussah silk is slightly thicker than mulberry silk), the hand touch has a cool feeling, and the force is pulled down in the dry and wet state. No significant difference.

Hemp: The fiber is slender, strong in strength, rough in texture, lacks elasticity and luster, and its fabric feels rough and has a cool feeling.

Man-made fiber: low fiber strength, easy to break after wetting, poor elasticity, scattered ciliated material at the broken end, quickly relax after grasping the fabric with hands, and its wrinkles are more and more obvious.

Nylon: high fiber strength, large recovery elongation, not easy to break, fabric elasticity is better than rayon, silk, rough feel.

Polyester: The fabric has the best elasticity, no wrinkles and no wrinkles, and the hand feels very slippery (the common name is really cool).

Acrylic fiber: The fabric is fluffy, soft and wooly, but the color is not soft, the hand feels dry and the elasticity is low.

Weilun: The fabric is poor in elasticity, easy to fold and wrinkle, hard to feel, and not bright in color.

In the identification of textiles, the identification of chemical fiber fabrics and wool fabrics, silk fabrics and hemp fabrics accounts for the majority. Chemical fiber, chemical fiber textile, refers to a fiber fabric made by chemical processing using natural polymer materials or synthetic polymer materials. Pure wool fabric is woven from high-quality fine wool and spun into a higher count of combed wool yarn. There is a significant difference between the two in terms of raw materials. However, with the continuous development of modern weaving technology, some chemical fiber fabrics, such as wool, imitation silk and imitation linen fabric, have almost achieved the effect of realism in the appearance. This has made some unscrupulous traders have the opportunity to take advantage of some consumers' greed, lack of necessary knowledge of the identification of textiles, fake wool, fake silk, fake silk, fake water, washed with water, pearls Hemp, aristocratic hemp and other famous chemical fiber fabrics counterfeit pure hemp fabrics, and do the tricks on the size, swindle consumers, in order to profit. The vast number of consumers must not buy small wool, silk fabrics, and keep invoices in large, medium-sized stores or textile franchise stores. At the same time, we must learn and master the characteristics and identification methods of chemical fiber, pure wool, cotton, silk and hemp fabrics.

For the identification of pure woolen wool and wool-type chemical fiber wool, the fabric article number must first be identified.

The sensory identification method is used to identify chemical fiber and pure wool fabrics as an example for brief description. The first step in sensory identification is to look at it. What makes them indistinguishable is that they have many things in common, such as bright colors, flat cloth, and clear grain lines. The difference between the two is brightness. The surface of the pure wool fabric has a natural luster, which is very soft and elegant, and the distribution is very uniform. The wool-like fabric is brighter and feels stiffer. The stronger the external light source, the stronger the reflection and the different chemical fiber reflections. The second step is to touch. The pure wool fabric feels soft and elastic. It has a sense of weight in the hand. It opens a piece of material and naturally hangs down. It has a strong drape and is relaxed by hand. There is no obvious crease on the surface of the fabric, and it can naturally Restoration, the wool-like fabric feels smooth and stiff, the fabric is light, no drape, and it is relaxed and creased after pinching. The pure wool fabric has good fiber elasticity, and the kneaded fabric is relaxed and immediately restored to its original state without any creases.

Take the sensory identification of silk, rayon and polyester yarn as an example.

The silk fabric is soft and bright, not glare, soft to the touch, elastic, and humming when it is wet. The handcuffs are tough and tough after soaking with water. The silk fabric is grasped by hand and then released, and the wrinkles are less.

The rayon fabric has a similar metallic luster, shiny and glare, and has a rough hand feeling. After being soaked with water, it is easily broken (wet toughness), and then loosened by hand and wrinkled.

Polyester yarn is strong and strong, and it is not easy to wrinkle with hand rubbing. There is no obvious difference in strength between dry and wet, and the degree of softness is general.

Although the above sensory identification method is relatively simple, the practical application has certain difficulty, and it is necessary to gradually accumulate experience. It is completely measured by the feeling, without hard rules or scales. Therefore, the identification of textiles must be solved by combustion method, microscopic examination and chemical dissolution. method.

Combustion identification method: cut a small piece of cloth or pull a few fibers to burn, according to the observation of fiber burning, whether there is shrinkage and melting, burning difficulty, flame color, burning speed, taste, ash color and traits to judge.

Before burning, the drawn warp or weft yarns can be opened to see if they are filaments or staple fibers. If it is short fiber, the length of the fiber is cotton, wool and other natural burning fibers; if the fiber length is consistent, it is viscose fiber or synthetic fiber. If it is a filament, it may be a sticky filament or silk. The difference between the two is that the sticky filaments are brighter than the silk. Then use the tip of the tongue to moisten the silk. If the wet area is easy to break, it is sticky fiber. If it is constantly in a wet place, it is silk. Regardless of whether the fiber is dry or wet, it is not easy to break, that is, synthetic fiber. Then the combustion identification is performed.

Cotton and linen: Burning faster, high flame, can spread automatically, leaving a small amount of soft white or gray ash, no coking. Hemp fibers have a popping sound when burned in a flame.

Wool: Burning is not fast, the flame is small, it is extinguished from the fire, there is protein odor after burning, the ash is curled, dark brown crystal, loose and brittle.

Silk: It can burn but does not prolong the burning. It shrinks into a ball after the fire. It has a buzzing sound when burned. It has a protein odor after burning. It is similar to wool. It burns into a dark brown ball and is easily broken into powder ash. shape.

Viscose fiber: It is burning near the flame, has a burning paper smell, leaving a trace of gray ash, easy to disperse and fly.

Nylon fiber: melt before burning, self-extinguishing from the fire, slightly celery flavor when burning, leaving a hard yellow spherical ash after burning.

Polyester: The fiber shrinks when burning, burning on one side, smoking on one side, the flame is yellow, has a weak sweet taste, and leaves a dark brown lumps after burning.

Acrylic fiber: It burns slowly while melting. The white flame is brighter, sometimes it is slightly black smoke, and it has a weak fishy smell. The gray is black and spherical.

Velon: When burning, the fiber melts rapidly and shrinks. It burns slowly, the flame is small, it is red, it has sweetness of flowers, and the ash is brown lumps.

Chlorine: It is difficult to burn, shrinks when it is close to the flame, it is extinguished when it is burned, it has a pungent smell of chlorine gas, and the gray is an irregular black block.

Polypropylene: One side is curled, one side melts and burns, the flame is bright, it is blue, it has a slightly burning asphalt smell, and the ash is light yellowish brown after burning.

Consumers should remember that all the ash after burning of the burning fiber is broken at the touch; from the odor, the vegetable fiber has the smell of burnt paper, the animal fiber has the smell of burning hair, and the chemical fiber burns. The ashes are lumpy lumps that do not have the first two types of burnt paper or burned hair.

Microscopic examination: Using a microscope of 150-500 times, observe the longitudinal and cross-section of the fiber. Generally, the cross section of the cotton fiber is oblate and narrow with a middle cavity, the hemp is polygonal, the wire is triangular, the wool is round, and the chemical fiber is viscose. The fiber cross section has a zigzag serrated outer edge.

According to the national standard GB/T2910 1991 "Quantitative chemical analysis method for two-component fiber blended products", a brief introduction to the use of chemical dissolution method to identify textile fibers.

1. Identify whether "cotton" fabric

For cotton and polyester or polypropylene fiber mixed textiles, dissolve the cotton with 75% sulfuric acid, respectively, leaving polyester and polypropylene to separate the two fibers.

2. Identify whether "pure wool" fabric

For wool and cotton, ramie, viscose, vinylon, acrylic, polyester, nylon, polypropylene fiber mixed fabric, dissolve the wool with 25% sodium hydroxide, respectively, residual cotton, ramie, viscose, vinylon, acrylic, polyester, nylon , polypropylene, the two fibers are separated.

3. Identify whether "pure linen" fabric

For linen, ramie and polyester or polypropylene fiber blended fabrics, linen and ramie are dissolved in 75% sulfuric acid, and polyester or polypropylene is left, respectively, to separate the two fibers.

4. Identify whether "silk" fabric

For the blended products of mulberry silk, tussah silk, wood silk and cotton, ramie, viscose, acrylic, polyester, nylon or polypropylene fiber, dissolve the mulberry silk, tussah silk and wood silk with alkaline sodium hypochlorite, respectively, and leave cotton and ramie respectively. Viscose, acrylic, polyester, nylon or polypropylene separate the two fibers.

5. For silk and wool blended products, the silk can be dissolved with 75% sulfuric acid and the remaining wool can be separated.

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